GameTote and Accessories Assembly

GameTote (complete) Assembly (est. 10 - 15 minutes)

Figure 1

Figure 1

1. Remove the contents from the box. You should have a GameTote cart frame, two handles, a wheel and three straps consisting of webbing, buckle and slide.

2. Using a blanket or rug to avoid scratching, place the frame on the floor with the ribs up and the wheel mounts rotated up so that the drop-outs are about 10 inches apart (see Fig. 1). Notice that each drop-out has 7 holes in it. These will permit you to choose a hole for the axle bolt which will give you the best height to fit you and your partner. Notice also that from one side of the cart the highest hole is on the left and from the other side of the cart the highest hole is on the right. To make things easier for later on make sure that the near side of the cart (which will ultimately be the right side of the cart when upright) has the highest hole on the left side (see Fig. 1).

Figure 2

Figure 2

3. Number the holes in the drop-outs from top to bottom (which is actually from bottom to top except for the fact that the GameTote is now sitting upside down) from 1 through 7 (the higher the hole the lower the number). The top 5 of these will be used for the axle bolt and will determine the overall height of your GameTote for fit. The top hole, No. 1, will give you a height of about 36 ½ inches. This means that with the GameTote standing level the top of the handles will be just about 36 ½ inches above the floor or ground. Each hole below that is just ½ inch below the last so that hole no. 2 is 36 inches, no. 3 is 35 ½ inches, no 4 is 35 inches and hole no 5 is 34 ½ inches.

4. Keeping all washers and spacers in the same exact order as they are on the axle bolt, remove the axle bolt from the wheel. Now, after having determined which hole is to be used to achieve the desired height, and while making the brake mechanism side of the wheel the near side (see Fig. 2), reassemble the wheel, axle bolt, washers, etc., on the drop-outs with but one washer on the outside of each drop-out. That will leave 3 washers for between the near drop-out and the brake mechanism (see Fig. 3). Be sure that the wheel is now in the center of the frame and aligned properly. Start the nut but leave things loose for now.

Figure 3

Figure 3

5. Notice that on the near side (brake mechanism side) of the wheel there is a slot (or brake stop). On a proper motorcycle this slot is filled with something to keep this mechanism from turning with the wheel and, enabling the brake to work properly. With the GameTote, until now, this stop was welded to the drop-out itself. With multiple choices as to where the axle bolt can be put, we now have a movable plug to be used for the brake stop. This consists of a hexagonal piece, a bolt and a large lock-washer. The question is, where does this plug go. When the axle bolt is in hole no. 1 the plug goes in hole no. 4,; 2 – 5; 3 – 6; 4 – 7; and 5 – 7. We have assembled your GameTote at the factory using the 3 hole which is 35 ½ inches. The plug was therefore in the 6 hole and we have left it right there. You might try this setting first to see if it will work for you.

6. With the wheel loosely installed, rotate the brake mechanism until the slot is directly behind the appropriate brake stop hole as indicated above. Slide the hexagonal piece into the slot so that it is aligned with the hole. Now push the bolt (with washer) into the hole and turn it until it threads into the hexagonal piece (see Figs. 2 & 3). Tighten this bolt until tight. Make sure that it is good and tight because if this somehow gets out your brakes will not work. Then tighten the axle bolt nut until it is also tight. The wheel should now be aligned within the frame. There is a little play in the bolt holes which will allow you to adjust alignment a bit if necessary.

Figure 4

Figure 4

7. The handles have been on the frame at the factory and they have been marked to show where they go. On the end opposite to the handle grips one handle has one punched dot and the other handle has two punched dots. When the handles are installed in the proper place these dots will be next to (within about an inch), of matching dots that are near the bottom of the closest rib. Also the brake lever will wind up on the same side of the cart that the brake mechanism (in the wheel) is on. Just begin to slide the handles on and then use a rubber hammer to finish. Keep a rubber hammer with you whenever you remove or install the handles.

8. Install the brake cable in the brake handle,(see Fig. 5).

9. The cable clamp on the other end of the brake cable is then secured in the brake arm (while it is depressed) (see Fig. 4).


10. When it arrives the brakes will be adjusted so that there is a minimum of drag when open and so that the brakes are locked when the brake handle is gripped tightly. Be sure that the cable clamp and the brake adjustment mechanism are securely tightened and that you have ample pull remaining on the brake handle when it is fully depressed. This will allow the brake to work properly and avoid the big one getting away from you down the hill. Adjust the brakes periodically as they settle in and check to see that you have plenty of handle before each use. We also suggest that before each hunting season you grease the brake cable and make sure that the brakes are adjusted properly and working well.

11. You can, if you wish, use 2 of the straps to close the gaps at each end between the handle cross-bars and the end of the frame. They are otherwise to be used, together with the 3rd strap to secure your animals to the cart.

Additional Notes

We began using 6 inch sections of standard 1 inch radiator hose for handle grips many years ago. These are virtually bomb-proof and provide both adequate cushioning for your hands and the toughness necessary for heavy loads. We have found that without something more these grips may begin to slide during use. To prevent this we now use and recommend Weldwood contact cement. Apply to both the outside of the handle and inside of the grips. Then pound on with a rubber hammer and wipe away any excess glue.

Installation of Height Adaptors (est. 12 - 20 minutes)

Where to locate: If you are adding 1 pair of height adaptors we suggest that you place them on the “front”, or end without the brake lever. If you put them on the “back” (end with the brake lever) you should also move the brake lever to the adaptor. This is to enable you to operate the brake without having to move your hand and possibly lose control.How to install: Place the small ends of the height adaptors into the handles (either up or down) as far as they will go. Drill a 3/8” hole for the retention (wire lock) pin to be inserted. If this is centered and drilled properly you will be able to use the adaptors either up or down. If you don’t get this quite right you can re-drill when reversed. 


Installation of DIY Webbing Liner (est. 15 - 25 minutes)

2 inch black polypropylene webbing - 2 @ 28 feet, 2 @ 40 inches
1½ inch black polypropylene webbing - 2 @ 29 feet
4 @ 2 inch tri-glides
4 @ 1½ inch tri-glides
2 @ 1½ or 2 inch D-rings
2 @ 30 inch lengths of 3/16 inch nylon rope

Rib Cage

Each of the 28 foot lengths of 2 inch webbing will do one side (or ½) of the rib cage. When you begin your GameTote should be completed and standing on one wheel and the handles on one end. You are standing (or sitting) on one side. Begin by attaching one end of the 28 foot section of 2 inch webbing to the left rib just inside (or on your side) of the sternum. Use a 2 inch tri-glide to do this as shown below:


Weave the webbing under the next rib (second), over the third, under and around the fourth, going back and forth until you have completed 8 rows and the end of the webbing is back on the near (top) left as shown above. DO NOT put webbing on the outside of the wheel supports. These must be free to rotate in case you wish to break down the GameTote for transport, repair a tire, etc.

With a 2 inch tri-glide attach a D-ring as shown below. Using a section of the nylon rope make two to four loops going through the D-ring and around the second rib from the left. Tie the rope temporarily and somewhat loosely. Finish the webbing for each end until it also is still a bit loose before returning to finish tightening the rib cage. This will help to obtain and maintain equal spacing between the rows of webbing. After the webbing is tightened it becomes more difficult to move along the tubing to adjust the spacing.

When the ends are ready, go back to the starting point near the sternum, tighten each "row" of webbing in turn (checking the spacing) until you get back to the D-ring. Cinch up the rope rather tightly and tie. You may re-tighten these periodically as necessary. Please note in the pic below that the person who did this failed miserably in that he/she did not follow the rule stated above that you should not put webbing on the outside of a wheel support.

Duplicate the process for the other side of the rib cage. 


Ends – Each of the 29 foot sections of 1½ inch webbing will do one end. Begin at a far corner next to a handle cross piece and using a 1½ inch tri-glide attach the webbing to the handle cross piece as shown above. Now wrap the webbing through the web gaps on the end of the rib cage. Note that there are ten such gaps in all, five on each side of the sternum, and that there should be no a gap above the top row of webbing on the side that has five widths of 2 inch webbing around the near rib.

Wrap the webbing around both the handle cross piece and the near rib – round and round rather than over and under as you did with the rib cage. When you complete the twentieth row of webbing attach the end to the handle cross piece with a 1½ inch tri-glide as you did with the other end. It is more difficult than with a D-ring, but tighten in the tri-glides as best you can. The end should now look like the image below:

Using one of the 40 inch pieces of webbing you will inter-weave this across the rows of 1½ inch end webbing, going under the bottom rows and above the top rows. This will make the end quite tight and strong when you finish by wrapping each end of this 2 inch webbing around a handle, tightening, and bringing it back snugly into a tri-glide as shown above. Note that where this 2 inch webbing wraps around the handle it should be just outside the larger diameter tubing on the front of the handle.

Check the webbing regularly. Re-tighten and adjust the spacing as necessary.