GameTote and Accessories Assembly

GameTote (complete) Assembly (est. 10 - 15 minutes)

1. Remove the contents from the box. You should have a GameTote cart frame, two handles, a wheel and three straps consisting of webbing, buckle and slide.

2. Using a blanket or rug to avoid scratching, place the frame on the floor with the ribs up and the wheel mounts rotated up so that the drop-outs are about 10 inches apart (see Fig. 1). Notice that each drop-out has 7 holes in it. These will permit you to choose a hole for the axle bolt which will give you the best height to fit you and your partner. Notice also that from one side of the cart the highest hole is on the left and from the other side of the cart the highest hole is on the right. To make things easier for later on make sure that the near side of the cart (which will ultimately be the right side of the cart when upright) has the highest hole on the left side (see Fig. 1).

3. Number the holes in the drop-outs from top to bottom (which is actually from bottom to top except for the fact that the GameTote is now sitting upside down) from 1 through 7 (the higher the hole the lower the number). The top 5 of these will be used for the axle bolt and will determine the overall height of your GameTote for fit. The top hole, No. 1, will give you a height of about 36 ½ inches. This means that with the GameTote standing level the top of the handles will be just about 36 ½ inches above the floor or ground. Each hole below that is just ½ inch below the last so that hole no. 2 is 36 inches, no. 3 is 35 ½ inches, no 4 is 35 inches and hole no 5 is 34 ½ inches.

4. Keeping all washers and spacers in the same exact order as they are on the axle bolt, remove the axle bolt from the wheel. Now, after having determined which hole is to be used to achieve the desired height, and while making the brake mechanism side of the wheel the near side (see Fig. 2), reassemble the wheel, axle bolt, washers, etc., on the drop-outs with but one washer on the outside of each drop-out. That will leave 3 washers for between the near drop-out and the brake mechanism (see Fig. 3). Be sure that the wheel is now in the center of the frame and aligned properly. Start the nut but leave things loose for now.

5. Notice that on the near side (brake mechanism side) of the wheel there is a slot (or brake stop). On a proper motorcycle this slot is filled with something to keep this mechanism from turning with the wheel and, enabling the brake to work properly. With the GameTote, until now, this stop was welded to the drop-out itself. With multiple choices as to where the axle bolt can be put, we now have a movable plug to be used for the brake stop. This consists of a hexagonal piece, a bolt and a large lock-washer. The question is, where does this plug go. When the axle bolt is in hole no. 1 the plug goes in hole no. 4,; 2 – 5; 3 – 6; 4 – 7; and 5 – 7. We have assembled your GameTote at the factory using the 3 hole which is 35 ½ inches. The plug was therefore in the 6 hole and we have left it right there. You might try this setting first to see if it will work for you.

6. With the wheel loosely installed, rotate the brake mechanism until the slot is directly behind the appropriate brake stop hole as indicated above. Slide the hexagonal piece into the slot so that it is aligned with the hole. Now push the bolt (with washer) into the hole and turn it until it threads into the hexagonal piece (see Figs. 2 & 3). Tighten this bolt until tight. Make sure that it is good and tight because if this somehow gets out your brakes will not work. Then tighten the axle bolt nut until it is also tight. The wheel should now be aligned within the frame. There is a little play in the bolt holes which will allow you to adjust alignment a bit if necessary.

7. The handles have been on the frame at the factory and they have been marked to show where they go. On the end opposite to the handle grips one handle has one punched dot and the other handle has two punched dots. When the handles are installed in the proper place these dots will be next to (within about an inch), of matching dots that are near the bottom of the closest rib. Also the brake lever will wind up on the same side of the cart that the brake mechanism (in the wheel) is on. Just begin to slide the handles on and then use a rubber hammer to finish. Keep a rubber hammer with you whenever you remove or install the handles.

8. Install the brake cable in the brake handle,(see Fig. 5).

9. The cable clamp on the other end of the brake cable is then secured in the brake arm (while it is depressed) (see Fig. 4).

10. When it arrives the brakes will be adjusted so that there is a minimum of drag when open and so that the brakes are locked when the brake handle is gripped tightly. Be sure that the cable clamp and the brake adjustment mechanism are securely tightened and that you have ample pull remaining on the brake handle when it is fully depressed. This will allow the brake to work properly and avoid the big one getting away from you down the hill. Adjust the brakes periodically as they settle in and check to see that you have plenty of handle before each use. We also suggest that before each hunting season you grease the brake cable and make sure that the brakes are adjusted properly and working well.

11. You can, if you wish, use 2 of the straps to close the gaps at each end between the handle cross-bars and the end of the frame. They are otherwise to be used, together with the 3rd strap to secure your animals to the cart.

Additional Notes

We began using 6 inch sections of standard 1 inch radiator hose for handle grips many years ago. These are virtually bomb-proof and provide both adequate cushioning for your hands and the toughness necessary for heavy loads. We have found that without something more these grips may begin to slide during use. To prevent this we now use and recommend Weldwood contact cement. Apply to both the outside of the handle and inside of the grips. Then pound on with a rubber hammer and wipe away any excess glue.